Quill lock on Clausing 8520 mill

[Terrywerm]

BTW Terry, if you read this. I took a look at changing the brake on the quill lock.. There's not a close enough fit between the quill and the current hole. That hole would have to be bored all the way out to the end of washer landing and then would still just kiss the quill. I don't think that will work...

Yup, read it.



Not sure I know entirely what you mean about the fit not being close enough. Are you replacing the brake cam, or the expanding brake ring?    Oh wait -- are we talking about the grinder or your Clausing 8520?


 

[woodchucker]

BTW Terry, if you read this. I took a look at changing the brake on the quill lock.. There's not a close enough fit between the quill and the current hole. That hole would have to be bored all the way out to the end of washer landing and then would still just kiss the quill. I don't think that will work...

Yup, read it.



Not sure I know entirely what you mean about the fit not being close enough. Are you replacing the brake cam, or the expanding brake ring?    Oh wait -- are we talking about the grinder or your Clausing 8520?


 

The 8520, sorry. We were talking about replacing the quill lock. Greg explained how efficient the lock is on a BP style, where the 2 brass slugs come in and tighten on the quill.. it doesn't require much tightening or force to lock the quill.  The problem is the slug would need to grab the quill more than the 32nd that we would get by boring out the old ... and boring it for me would be in my drill press as I don't have another mill. If I had another mill, I might attempt it, as I could change the shape and re-sleeve the hole and do more. But as it is... I may just live with it. Or if I need to take the head apart again, re-examine the options. I didn't take it apart I just measured the quill edge vs the bore for the existing bolt, and how far over I would need to shift.


Edited by TerryWerm for font size so it would be readable. Also split this off into its own thread.

[Terrywerm]

Jeff, I don't know why, but your post used a font so tiny it looked like a solid gray line in the post instead of legible text.  Oh well. I hope you don't mind my editing it to increase the font size.


Anyway, I feel like a dunce. I was thinking SPINDLE BRAKE, not the quill lock. I agree with you, that re-engineering it would be extremely difficult if not nearly impossible. I've gotten used to leaving a wrench on the locking bolt most of the time. I would prefer the type of lock like is found on a Bridgeport, but we can't have everything we want I guess. I'll keep my eyes open in case you eventually find something that might change my mind.


 

[woodchucker]

the font issue is something that happens too often. Anytime I copy and paste...
It's been better than it used to be, but still happens too often.

[Terrywerm]

I understand about the font issue. I cannot answer as to why it occurs, but at least there are ways around it when it does.

I have been considering ordering one of these adjustable clamping handles from McMaster-Carr. They have different styles and materials, but I am thinking that it might be the easiest way around the problem. Yes, it would be nice to have the same type of lock as a BP, but I just don't see it happening without an overly serious modification.


https://www.mcmaster.com/machine-handles/handles/heavy-duty-adjustable-handles/

I assume you have probably used one of them before, but for the benefit of those that have not, these handles can be indexed in relation to the threaded stud. Lifting up on the handle (pulling it away from the stud) disengages the handle from the threaded stud. You can then rotate it around to the position where you want it and let it snap back into place and it stays indexed in that position.


 

[woodchucker]

I have used the spring loaded ones. They are generally light duty.
The heavy duty ones get fixed with a screw to the position and don't move by pulling, at least that's been my experience.

[Terrywerm]

Here is the information from McMaster's catalog page for the heavy duty ones: 


These rugged steel handles provide lasting durability for applications involving frequent positioning,tightening, and holding adjustments. Lift the handle to rotate freely; then release the handle to engage and tighten. These handles are also known as clamping handles. All have a black-oxide finish for mild rust resistance.


Should do the trick I would think. I will order one in the next week and give it a whirl. Will report back here with the results.


 

[jpigg55]

A little late to the party, just read this post.

Jeff, are you needing a handle for your spindle lock or just considering a mod for a more effective one ?
I'll have to check to be sure, but I think I have an extra spindle lock handle on the spare 8520 head I have.

[woodchucker]

no, this was about modding the quill lock to a bridgeport style lock, where I would bore the lock area out, and put two slugs of brass in there that would have the radius of the quill cut into them where they join, tighten and it locks the quill.  Very low pressure compared to the 8520 which requires pulling the casting.


The problem was the location of the current hole is too far from the quill. It need to be closer to make it work. If I had another machine, I might try plugging the existing hole and moving things over, but I think the risk is too high, and gain too low.


The BP solution is so simple and elegant.. it works, where as the 8520 does not work well. It slips unless you gronk down on it.

[jpigg55]

The BP solution is so simple and elegant.. it works, where as the 8520 does not work well. It slips unless you gronk down on it.

I know what you  mean.