Removing rust on sht metal

[walrus]

I know not really machinist related but I want to blast some rust off an antique car without leaving telltale ripples from overheating the steel. I have a pressurized sand blaster, black beauty is the cheapest media but its the stuff that will ruin a skin. So walnut shells, soda blasting, glass beads etc, what should I use? I also picked up a 1955 Bowser gas pump that  I need to strip the paint on.

[4GSR]

Lots of elbow grease and emery cloth.

Might try some towels soaked in Evaporust and applied/laid on the rusted areas. And kept damp in Evaporust.
It will eventually remove the rust and leave effective areas a grayish looking color.  Might be able to use it as is or sand it lightly before primer.

Ken

[Uncle Buck]

I know not really machinist related but I want to blast some rust off an antique car without leaving telltale ripples from overheating the steel. I have a pressurized sand blaster, black beauty is the cheapest media but its the stuff that will ruin a skin. So walnut shells, soda blasting, glass beads etc, what should I use? I also picked up a 1955 Bowser gas pump that  I need to strip the paint on.

Partially depends on how antique the car is. The sheet metal on a 1940's-1950's car or earlier should be thick enough to stand up to  sand blasting. Probably even through the 1960's I bet. I am virtually positive the same thing would be true for the gas pump.

Make sure you know what is in your blast media for sure though. Anything containing silica can give you silicosis if used which as I am sure you already know can kill you.

[chips and more]

I had a Model A door dry ice blasted. It went well. Stretching the metal into warping is what you should be concerned about. I would forget the media idea and look at your chemical options. Can you still buy Metal Prep?…Dave

[pep]

Rust....paid my dues and here are some shots to save a thousand words. What's seen did not as much time as one may think.  The fire wall took about 3 hours to remove and get it cleaned up .

The tool
Electric angle grinder & cup knotted wire brush

picture 1  cab and donor firewall
picture 2  cab put in the yard laid it on the back and got busy with the grinder.
Picture 3 interior of cab cleaned and rust encapsulated. Eastwood product, can be primed
and top coated.
Picture 4 firewall surgically removed
Picture 5 all cleaned up
The point being a wire brush can do wonders, not a lot of mess to clean up. Use enough pressure to remove the rush and paint. Not heat, goes quickly.
Picture 6 the wire brush

Not going to mention face mask & eye protection, common sense should determine that.

Another take on corrosion control ....

Pep

[4GSR]

I've used some of the smaller ones on my air grinders in the past for smaller jobs.  Works okay.

[pep]

Air tools have there place for sure, but a job with lots of real estate needs the physical size and consistent power of the corded electric tooling.

Pep

[pep]

After some RUST removal, hanging body parts.

We see a truck forming, taking shape. Remember no blasting or chemicals used for the corrosion control.

Pep

[Carpenter84]

I look forward to seeing this truck take more shape. Please keep posting.

I also enjoy the look on your wife's face. Lol. I know if it were my wife, that face would be something along the lines of, "you spend how much on this...?" A face that I can tell she really appreciates all the hardwork I put in....

[gtermini]

Air tools have there place for sure, but a job with lots of real estate needs the physical size and consistent power of the corded electric tooling.

Pep

High grade air tools will out run electric tools many times over in both power and life expectancy. You need a big compressor and an even bigger wallet though.

This Atlas Copco grinder is 1.5HP. I can't stall it leaning on it as hard as I (6'2" 300) can. It goes and goes and never gets warm, in fact it starts icing up. It takes about 75cfm @ 120psi to run under full load. It is less than a 1/4th the size of a big Milwaukee 7/9", and will out preform one. I liked it so much I got a second so I can run a stringer wheel on one and a flap disc on the other. Catch is, they cost almost $2000 new and about $500 used on ebay.



This is a little cutie 0.7HP Ingersoll piece that I absolutely adore. 3/8-NF spindle so you can run 4" suicide wheels. A lot easier on the air than the Copco and priced at about a two Metabos.



I love how small and powerful air tools are, and easy to wield. I don't intend to go back to smelling burning electrical and feeling smoking hot motors any time soon. Electric tools have their place, but it's not usually in demanding applications.

That is a sweet ride you have there!

Greyson

[pep]

Not thinking I would ever have 2Ks worth of work for a grinder, that's me.  I have my share of air tools, Ingersoll Rand and Hutchins .

Others like yourself that have a need for that that kind of woop ass, that's a beast.

 What are you working on there ?
Pep

[gtermini]

It's an trainwreck Ellis miter bandsaw I should have never put my hands on. I'll put up a thread one of these days.

Greyson

[dlane]

This was my neighbors I’ve helped him with some of the machining work.
Some people like the rusty look, I like the clean painted look myself .

[Uncle Buck]

My rod tastes run closer to pep's.

[dlane]

Yup mine too , but some folks like the rust look , when he takes them to shows instead of waxing/polishing he gets out the rattle can primer. He had a model A rat rod but a weld broke on the rear end and it went thru a stout wood fence ,he spent a couple days in the hospital
Here’s one of the other ones,