AIR COMPRESSORS > Air Compressors etc.


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Jake Parker:
I used to hydrotest gas pipelines 4 high-pressure applications. When I got a used air compressor receiver given to me a hydro tested it as well. I also Hydro tested a friends are receiver while testing my own. I thought I would walk you through the steps that I took to safely make sure that an air compressor tank will hold up to its recommended settings.
To started with you need to plug all holes, and remove the safety pop off valves. You need one bung to be at the highest point of the tank to ensure that all air has been forced out.
 I tapped into the lower drain hole with a half inch ball valve and a garden hose adapter. I used a "T" in one of the pop off valve ports to hook a gauge and a fitting to connect my "porta power's" hydro pump. I filled yhe tank from the bottom pushing the air out of my vent, agin the highest point, until it was full I pkugged off the vent, closed the fill valve and used the "porta power's" hydro pump to pump the tank up to 210psi. I used the pipeline standard of 150 per cent of normal working pressure.
I held the test for 2 hours with no fluctuation in pressure.
I drained all the water back through oil absorbing matts to eliminate the small amount of oil injected from the "porta power".
I let the tank sit in the sunshine open to help evaporate any residual water for a few days.

Jake Parker:
The "t" and gauge.

Jake Parker:
More random pictures

Jake Parker:
If y'all have any questions, please ask.

Jake, thanks for posting.  I will make this a "sticky" so it's there for anyone in the future can reference to.

Have two questions here. 1) how far are you from the tank when applying pressure to the tank?

2) Should a person base the test pressure off of the ASME tag on the vessel or tank?

I think it would be a good idea before applying any pressure, first, look at the ASME tag and see what the tank was originally hydro tested to before applying any pressure.  150% of working pressure is correct for most applications, only if you know the original design working pressure of the vessel. That's why you go off the metal tag that should be affix to the vessel or tank.  If this label is missing, DO NOT PRESSURE TEST, unless you have had a working air pressure applied.  Then follow your advice of a test pressure of 150 psi.

If you have a shop built tank and want to pressure test, your are on your own!  No advice given here.

I am a mechanical engineer, not licensed, but have/do work with high pressure equipment all the time.



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