Recent Posts

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Lathes / Re: MySore Kirloskar Enterprise 10 rebuild
« Last post by Carpenter84 on Today at 08:55:48 AM »
Alright. I was hoping to gain some experience with different products. But not at that price.
I think I might might still do the set screws between the saddle and apron to find the point where carriage travel is the smoothest, then figure out what to use to fill the resulting gap between the apron and saddle. The set screws will be easy to install at least.
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GENERAL DISCUSSION TO INCLUDE OFF TOPIC / Re: What Did You Do Today
« Last post by 4GSR on Today at 08:05:35 AM »
Sure like your mill. Wish I could get one for my shop!!!  Maybe some day...
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Lathes / Re: MySore Kirloskar Enterprise 10 rebuild
« Last post by 4GSR on Today at 08:03:26 AM »
Sometimes using shims and even gasket material is used.  Done this a time or two over the years.  Especially if you don't have the luxury of getting things re-machined proper as if new.  And there's nothing wrong with doing so. 
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Blown in or spray?

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Shop Construction (The actual building of your shop) / Re: My new shop
« Last post by savarin on Today at 06:58:08 AM »
 :57: :57: I've just had a new roof put on the new house and had it insulated-----------------------------To keep the heat out! :57: :57:
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GENERAL DISCUSSION TO INCLUDE OFF TOPIC / What Did You Do Today
« Last post by PJB on Today at 12:31:16 AM »
Finsh program and machining side b tonight and ready to ship.

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Lathes / Re: MySore Kirloskar Enterprise 10 rebuild
« Last post by Carpenter84 on November 18, 2019, 08:18:04 PM »
Then what do you suggest? I'm sure I could use shims for the saddle hold downs, but I don't want to use shims for the apron. Id have to almost make a gasket to keep the chips out from inside the apron.
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Lathes / Re: MySore Kirloskar Enterprise 10 rebuild
« Last post by 4GSR on November 18, 2019, 07:54:36 PM »
What about just using JB weld? Or that metal putty epoxy stuff? We're just talking about filling a gap that wouldn't be under any strain or friction... just something that takes the place of brass shims.

I think you are over doing it trying to use these things. 

There is a good thread over on the rebuilding forum of someone that wants to fill in the gouges on the ways of a machining center.  That would be similar to what your wanting to do here.  Another thing to look at is brush plating.  Real easy setup, just need a power supply that would put out about 3-6 volts with around 50-75 amps output.  Have to get the plating solution, anoid, and get after it.  Oh, the plating solution could cost upward around $250 for what you want to do.  Ouch!!!
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General Shop discussions / Re: brought this home today
« Last post by 4GSR on November 18, 2019, 07:46:14 PM »
Not a bad price.  Wish now I kept the one dad had in his shop.  Not that I need it, it could have come handy a few times in the past.
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Shop Construction (The actual building of your shop) / Re: My new shop
« Last post by Carpenter84 on November 18, 2019, 06:49:56 PM »
At current, I do not leave the furnace on when I'm not in the shop. It's not vapor tight yet. I honestly hadn't thought that far yet.

I don't tend to keep the shop that warm when I'm there, even the garage. When I work in the garage, I only raise the temp to around 62. Otherwise I sweat when I work. Same with the new shop. Usually only 60. And when I'm not working the garage is 45, just to keep from freezing. I may keep the shop a bit warmer as it's fully insulated, my garage isn't. But it'll depend on how well the shop keeps the heat.

When I'm in the garage, the heater will run for about 7 minutes, then usually run a second time about 10 mins later. But won't run again for over an hour. Once the iron and everything is warm, the garage keeps the heat pretty good for an uninsulated space. I'm hoping the shop will work well. My biggest heat loss point will be the garage door. It's an insulated door, but even with weather strip around outside, it's still drafty. I've actually need searching around for the industrial roll-up door style brush seals. I'll line the inside parameter to keep the drafts out.
If I can keep the furnace down to a 5 minute cycle once an hour, I'll keep the shop around 55 when I'm not there. Then I'll never have an issue with moving and rusting iron. However, all this depends on how long the furnace needs to cycle in order to keep from sooting out.

As far as the machines rusting when moved, the mill is covered in oil, head to toe, lathe is similar, the grinder would be a potential issue. But I'm not convinced I won't need to rebuild the SG one day, tho.
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