A Starrett 360 Straight Edge. Not nice.

 "Billy G"

I actually unclicked the like button, to like it again...

                                                     

That wide of a blade I would be running ball or roller bearings snug against the blade.

the guides are not the issue with the blade, two separate topics.
the bahco blade - i guess i could cut the old weld out with the skipped tooth and reweld it... I'm apprehensive because the blade currently works.. The last blade I welded, welded crooked, but did outlast the blade - it snapped elsewhere (my fault).
But the tooth count is rather low for general use. I think it was a 4-6. I bought it for the huge 2" thick aluminum job I had at the time. Now, cutting bar stock, tube, sheet - I'm destroying the blade. But that skipped tooth is brutal..


the guides - they're tricky to adjust juussst right... My blade is a 3/4" wide blade, and the cut can wonder. I built a fence for the saw a little while ago, with with the guide lowered right down to the work, I still get a wondering cut. So, I wind up trying to adjust the guides and it usually snow balls. the last time I adjusted the lower set, was due to the guides sneaking in and actually biting into the blade! Right now its set so that there is just a whisker of side play between the guides.
So, I was asking peoples opinions. Who likes what. I'll snap a picture and add it to the post - I'm on the computer currently.

...
Also, the blade guides are carbide insert fingers. I've had to adjust them several times to keep the blade from wondering or binding.
What's the desirable types of blade guides?

It's probably not the guides themselves.  Study the holders.... If they are made of pot metal or cheezy material, they will stretch allowing the guides to move on you.  Otherwise, the guides are just moving around in the holder.  My cheezy Robiy 10" wood cutting band saw, the guides move around in the holders.

Just a thought...