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3" vise

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I've been wanting a small tool makers/grinding vise for a while for various things. Lately the desire has been to grind my hss lathe tools on the surface grinder instead of the bench grinders.
I had been looking online for vises. Found some reasonably cheap ones, but ideally, I need a sine vise to get the angles to grind the tool bits.
And I also had plans to make a sine dresser if I wanted to dress dovetails on the grinder. I could adapt the vise to also accept the linear slide I bought to make said dresser.
Those various vises, however, are much more expensive than just a simple grinding vise.

So, I'll attempt to make one.

I had a big chunk of hot rolled for another project I never started. 3x2 hot rolled, about 20" long. Lots of stock. I don't remember the grade. 1018 sound right?? Cut off a 6" chunk. My plan is to make a 3" wide, 2.5" opening, 1.125" depth. Bigger than I need for grinding tool bits, but I know there will come a time I wish I made it bigger.

Took an annoying amount of time to dress and clean up the stock. Face milled it then used a long end mill to clean up the sides. Found the .0015" run out on the Chinese arbor, which has been giving me the crummy face mill finish. I will buy a new better quality arbor.
I used a parallel on the fixed jaw, and a spare transfer punch on the movable jaw to square the work. Once done, the X travel was within a few thou, nice, but the Y travel was nearly .020" out - one side taller than the other. I indicated my fixed jaw with the quill and it's within a thou. So, I dunno what happened. Something was/is crooked. I'll need to check tram, or see if something is leaning funny. I'll look into that later. I can always resurface any time, plus I plan on surface grinding the vise parts.

I didn't take step by step photos cause everything was dirty and I keep having to send my good phone in for repair cause I get chips stuck inside the speaker and it stops working. I've been on an old phone for a while now since, hence all the really crappy pictures. The camera on this phone is damaged.

Anyways. To cut out the huge relief, I drilled two holes in the inside corners from the side and used the porta-band to cut out the majority then a 3 flute indexable endmill to hog out the rest. Then a 4 flute 3/4" carbide endmill to clean up. There's a lot of play in the Y travel in my table. I need to shim the gib so surface finish isn't great.
I used my new angle block set to set up the 28* angle for the decorative cut on the fixed jaw.

Next I'll work on the underside.

I would like to make this a sine vise... any suggestions, ideas, or opinions? Anything I should keep in mind? I have no plan for this. Pretty much thinking I値l make a vise then address the sine part after. Unless there痴 something I should consider before hand?

I値l have questions later regarding the sine elements. Also, questions regarding a precision hinge. I値l need to order some dowel pins as well I知 sure.


I've never built a sine bar or anything like that, but it is a common project when in school to become a tool and die maker or similar. I've got a sine bar that my grandfather made when he was getting started in the trade. Looking at it a person would never guess that it dates back to before WWII.

Have you tried looking online for any plans for such a thing?

Sort of... which means briefly... I am making this one up as I go along. But trying to plan head to make sure I don稚 back myself into a corner and just wind up with a vise, and not a sine vise.

I was reading a few blurbs in my machinery handbook last night about sine. It seems fairly simple on the surface. The theory at least. Getting the logistics down is the part I need to sort out.

It seems as long as my rolls are of an exact distance, and exactly flat (and parallel with my vise surfaces) it should be simple. So, much of that I値l be doing on the surface grinder.

But I have yet to sort out how the sine vise is hinged. I have some ideas, but need to look into it further when I have time.

Sine vise can be "hinged" with pins which is the easiest.  What it amounts to is the distance from your pivot point to the center of your round pin is an exact distance such as 5" or 10".  The hinge pin does not necessarily have to be the same diameter, but from a horizontal position, their heights should be the same at it's center line.  I'm too crippled up at the moment or I would go get my 15" long sine bar out and take a picture and post. It's made with drilled holes for mounting your work piece on for machining.  I bought it strictly for machining tapered gibs as needed.


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