Author Topic: Welding rods  (Read 142 times)

Carpenter84

Welding rods
« on: March 04, 2019, 10:15:05 PM »
I gave my old mastercraft 225 AC buzz box to my boss since he's starting down the hobbies rabbit hole. I haven't used it since I got the airco dip stick 160. The rods Ive used in both machines are Lincoln 7018 H8 AC. Runs well in both AC and DC. I also remember it running well on that mastercraft AC buzz box.

I got it all set up in his garage on the weekend and he bought a box of 7018 from princess auto (harbor freight). Welded like garrrrrrrbage... Incredibly difficult to keep an arc. They were e7018-1. Looks like it may prefer DCEP. Tolerable on my machine in DC. But rather difficult in AC.
I told him, he returned them and bought a pound of Hobart 3/32 7018AC.  Still runs like garbage. Very difficult to keep an arc. Rod burns faster than the flux. Tried it on machine. My machine didn't like it either in AC. Difficult to keep an arc. Went back my Lincoln 3/32 7018 rods and back to butter. I'm gonna take some of my rods, which are a few years old, certainly not stored how 7018's want to be stored... and try it on his machine and see if they run like I remember.

So, another strike against Hobart for me... I have not liked any welding consumables they make. I have a roll of hobart flux core and I don't like it either.
Anyone else have experience with Hobart stuff?
Shawn

First 9x42 column mill,
Enterprise 10x28 lathe,
Ko Lee 6x12 surface grinder,
Airco dip/stick 160 welder,
Fully stocked wood shop.

Terrywerm

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Re: Welding rods
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2019, 07:02:54 AM »
Have not tried their rods but do have one of their MIG welders and really like it. I've run their wire in it, but not flux core. Forney rods have always been readily available around here and I never had any issues with them. I've also had good results with Lincoln rods too.
Terry

Making chips with old machines!

4GSR

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2019, 09:07:10 AM »
I always thought that 7018's was the way to go.  Learned over the years 7018 is not as easy to use as one may think.  May want to try some 6011 or 6012 and see if they weld better.  I think the rods I have are Lincoln brand.  Been so long since I've dirt dobbered  I'd have to go find them to make sure.
Ken

Carpenter84

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2019, 12:00:52 PM »
My Lincoln 7018 AC side by side with Hobart 7018 AC, the Lincoln started better, sounded better, kept an arc better, didn't under cut the flux on the rod as much. Definitely easier to learn on than the Hobart. The Lincoln had my vote... Also turned out the high range on that mastercraft 225 is quite a bit more tired than the low range.
Shawn

First 9x42 column mill,
Enterprise 10x28 lathe,
Ko Lee 6x12 surface grinder,
Airco dip/stick 160 welder,
Fully stocked wood shop.

Ulma Doctor

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2019, 02:32:45 PM »
i have  Hobart 7018,7014, 6011,6010 rods in 3/32, 1/8 and, 5/32
they run fine on AC in my Lincoln Tombstone (with exception of 6010)
they run fine on my Montgomery Wards 230 AC welder (with the exception of 6010)
i can run all of them from the 300amp Powcon on DCEP

Lincoln makes very good rod i have burned more Lincoln than anything.
Forney has been very good too

try turning the amps up or down to find the sweet spot.
i generally weld a little hotter on thicker sections that can take heat, turn it back for thinner sections.

drag angle and arc length can be problem areas, especially if the amps are too low
9 Lathes, 5 Milling Machines, 6 Welders, 2 Surface Grinders, Shop Smith & woodworking stuff too !!!

MIKE WALTON

Carpenter84

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2019, 04:45:02 PM »
Maybe I should have mentioned we were practicing on 14awg sheet, and 1/8" hot rolled. So, turning the heat up can be problematic. I had a box of 7014 buried in my cabinet I didn't know about. I gave half to him. Much much nicer to run.
Shawn

First 9x42 column mill,
Enterprise 10x28 lathe,
Ko Lee 6x12 surface grinder,
Airco dip/stick 160 welder,
Fully stocked wood shop.

Ulma Doctor

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2019, 08:34:19 PM »
6013 is great for sheet metal!
as a matter of fact, that is what it was designed to weld, way back when.
9 Lathes, 5 Milling Machines, 6 Welders, 2 Surface Grinders, Shop Smith & woodworking stuff too !!!

MIKE WALTON

Carpenter84

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2019, 09:14:01 PM »
I've honestly never tried any 60##
Shawn

First 9x42 column mill,
Enterprise 10x28 lathe,
Ko Lee 6x12 surface grinder,
Airco dip/stick 160 welder,
Fully stocked wood shop.

4GSR

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2019, 09:17:19 PM »
Were strength is not an issue, surfaces are dirty, rusty, works good.  You can even do a little bit of vertical, upside down welding, too.
Ken

Carpenter84

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2019, 09:29:02 PM »
I'd say, given my lack of practice with welding, welding merely being a means of connecting metal together as required, I have gone to somewhat extensive lengths to NOT weld out of position. Lol


I almost never stick weld anymore with my mig and tig capabilities. Only reason it's come up is because I gave my old welder to my boss.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2019, 09:30:43 PM by Carpenter84 »
Shawn

First 9x42 column mill,
Enterprise 10x28 lathe,
Ko Lee 6x12 surface grinder,
Airco dip/stick 160 welder,
Fully stocked wood shop.

Terrywerm

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Re: Welding rods
« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2019, 11:58:48 AM »

The basic numbers and uses that I was taught way back in the day are like this (hope my memory doesn't fail me, and feel free to correct me):


60XX =  60,000 PSI tensile strength
70XX =  70,000 PSI tensile strength
  • 6010 - All position, deep penetration rod, used for rusty metal or where deeper penetration is required. Runs on DC+ only. Commonly used for pipeline welding. Requires a close arc.
  • 6011 - All position and deep penetration also. Also works well on rusty materials. Can be used with AC or DC+
  • 6013 - All position general purpose rod, shallow penetration. Can be used with AC, DC+ or DC-. Produces a quiet and smooth arc and works well on thin materials.
  • 7014 - All position general purpose "drag" rod, shallow penetration. Has high iron content in the coating. Can be used with AC, DC+ or DC-. Works well for overhead work if I remember right.
  • 7018 - All position low hydrogen rod with shallow to medium penetration. Typically used for high alloy steels, but works well on regular mild steels also. Runs on AC, DC+ or DC-, but I prefer DC+.
  • 309L - Stainless steel rod. Don't remember many of the particulars about it, haven't used it in a very long time.
  • Nickel rod (numbers vary by manufacturer) - used for welding cast iron. I've had the best luck with Forney brand here.
My three favorites are 6011, 6013, and 7018, but I usually stick with my wire feed unless I get into heavy work over 1/4" thick.



Terry

Making chips with old machines!

Ulma Doctor

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2019, 04:13:45 PM »
just to add to Terry's list
there are also
80XX
100XX
120XX, (yes you guessed it 120,000 psi rod)
rods too, but you won't likely see them at the big box store

fair mention to 7024, if you have plate work to do in the flat or horizontal and need a lot of weld in a short time


in stainless rod there is
308L when joining stainless to stainless
309L when joining stainless to mild or carbon steel
312L when you don't have a clue what either metal is


one other rod that was not mentioned is cutting rod.
as implied it is meant to cut.
it is similar to 6010, but burns HOT and is not really suitable for welding
9 Lathes, 5 Milling Machines, 6 Welders, 2 Surface Grinders, Shop Smith & woodworking stuff too !!!

MIKE WALTON

Jake Parker

Re: Welding rods
« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2019, 10:22:10 PM »
I burned some Hobart rods today.
The secret is to never put the lid back on the box.
It seems to me after soaking up some humidity, they act ok.