PROJECTS > Any project in metal or alloy

Quill Lock ..

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woodchucker:
So I'm in the thinking stage. I need some opinions and advice.
First Brigeport users. Your quill locks are so nice, flip and they are locked. My Clausing 8520 , and others with the 8530 have to wrench it. I made a tool less bolt https://imgur.com/a/njDkM  .. Still not as nice. BP users, does your head have a sliding brake shoe.. A cylinder or square with a halfmoon cut out to lock the quill... when you flip it pushes in on the shoe and locks the quill?

That's what I am thinking of doing to my Clausing 8520.. It relies on squeezing the casting closed to lock it. But in the middle it's loose, and toward the ends it's already tight due to quill wear. I could take it all apart again and grind the quill .. but I don't think so. What I do want  is an easy way to lock the quill. So I am thinking of boring out the front of the casting's bolt hole, Then fitting a brass slug , or aluminum in and cutting the radius of the quill so when pushed against it locks the quill.
What I don't remember is whether the bolt hole is close enough to the quill that I'll get a bite on the quill. Since the mill will be down while machining, I won't have it to use to make the quill head mods. If any of you Clausing users have your quill head apart , can you let me know if the quill cavity and bolt casting can be joined?

Looking for a better lock.

Terrywerm:

Jeff, I've been contemplating the same issue but have come up with a solution that will not require any modifications to the head of the 8520. I've not yet tried it, or even drawn anything up on the subject, but my thought is to use a longer bolt which would pass through a toggle lever that acts as an eccentric. Flip the lever one way and it is loose, allowing the quill to move up and down very easily. Flip it partway to create a little drag, or flip it as far as it will go to lock it down tight. They are available from McMaster-Carr in several different styles:  https://www.mcmaster.com/machine-handles



I cannot help but think that this would be a better option than modifying the head of your mill, much less expensive, plus it would be reversible if necessary.

woodchucker:
Yep, got you. I still think the same problem exists, the force required to close the casting.  It's a thick enough casting to require lots of force

Terrywerm:
I hate to say that I have to disagree with you, Jeff. On my 8520 I keep a short 5/8" wrench handy so that I can set the quill lock when necessary, but I find that I can go from fully loose to fully tight in less than half a turn of the bolt, and I never have to take the bolt past being snug. I never have to really tighten it to lock the quill. Maybe my headstock housing has less wear than yours, which could account for any differences that you and I might experience.

I neglected to mention that I do like your custom bolt and I had considered making one like yours, but then I got to thinking about using one of these eccentric clamp handles.

Anyway, the bolt is a 7/6"-14 x 1 1/2" according to the Clausing manual. This means that one half turn of the bolt makes a movement of about .035" which falls well within the clamping distance listed for those handles. Additionally, some of those handles are capable of a clamping force of 1775 pounds, which I think would be more than sufficient force to lock the quill. At any rate, I plan to give one of those clamping handles a try in the coming weeks. It will be a quick and easy modification without actually modifying my mill. I will report back here with the results.

Terrywerm:
I forgot to mention that I think your idea is doable, and would be the ultimate quill lock if there is enough meat available to do what you are considering. Either way, I think this subject is going to be interesting and very worthwhile!

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