Author Topic: Removing rust on sht metal  (Read 1107 times)

pep

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #15 on: August 27, 2018, 07:11:04 AM »
Some more rust removal, door skins replaced. Both door lower halves, cut and grafted. Firewall cleaned up.

Pep

Jake Parker

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #16 on: August 27, 2018, 03:26:36 PM »
What motor do you plan on using in the pu?

pep

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #17 on: August 27, 2018, 09:49:45 PM »
Warmed over 327, modern heads, vortex fast burn.

Pep

34_40

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #18 on: August 28, 2018, 09:24:12 PM »
Gonna be a sweet ride. Thanks for sharing the pics.
Clausing 108, Clausing 8520, Atlas Horizontal, Lincoln stick and mig welders

firestopper

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #19 on: August 29, 2018, 09:18:13 AM »
I like it Pep.
Turn and Burn,
Paco

Uncle Buck

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #20 on: August 29, 2018, 09:50:53 AM »
Warmed over 327, modern heads, vortex fast burn.

Pep

Forgive my ignorance with this question. Could late model vortex heads be used on a 1968 307? If so what would I need to do different? Same question, 1972 Chevy 350 what would I need to do different and what would be the benefits and would it come with a loss of power? Both are carbureted engines I will not be converting to fuel injection too.
You boys better hold on cause i'm gonna have to stand on it!

firestopper

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #21 on: August 29, 2018, 11:25:09 AM »
UB,
The only thing I see using Vortex head is the intake would have to be an eight bolt votex vs the 12 bolt. That said I also believe you'd have to go FI.
I could be way off base here but that stands out  for me.
Turn and Burn,
Paco

Uncle Buck

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #22 on: August 29, 2018, 11:42:51 AM »
UB,
The only thing I see using Vortex head is the intake would have to be an eight bolt votex vs the 12 bolt. That said I also believe you'd have to go FI.
I could be way off base here but that stands out  for me.

I suspect that you are right as those engines are fuel injection. I have one of those in 6 cylinder and I am not impressed with the setup for the fuel injectors, the spider sitting between the upper and lower intake. I replaced that thing a few months back.

I will be keeping my old cars carbureted for sure. I am not swift enough to be trying to upgrade to FI being totally honest.
You boys better hold on cause i'm gonna have to stand on it!

firestopper

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #23 on: August 29, 2018, 11:56:52 AM »
Honestly UB, FI is the way to go for me. The only reason my 82 Land cruiser is still carbureted is due to the value of keeping it original. That said, that carb is a PITA to keep tuned and pass emissions. Everything else I have is FI including a Harley. Much easier to trouble shoot and reliable.
The 90's V6 vortex FI is a pain, that Spyder system (plastic) sucks a$$. The direct injection is the way to go these days. MDS/Holley make a very nice after market FI for older rigs. MDS began with the Atomic and now offers the Air Force. Holley bought MSD back in 2015 (I believe) so the prices have come down a bit. Holly's version is under $1K and straight forward install.
Turn and Burn,
Paco

pep

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #24 on: August 31, 2018, 10:17:35 PM »
UB, here is what I know so far, the block is a 67, not sure about the year of the heads, at least 97 vintage.

My guess is that a 307 can be fitted with the vortec head.  Vortec heads were first seen on the 350, 307s had those dreaded smog heads.

The intake is a specific design, so heads and intake will be necessary. Carburetted is common, Edelbrock performer, not a fan of FI.

 That said must quality the statement, mechanical Hilborn ....... love it. Computer managed, not for me, to much wiring, and clutter under the hood.

Pep

pep

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #25 on: October 20, 2018, 08:30:45 AM »
Now with both doors repaired & aligned, mock up block & trans mounted.

A side note here, when fitting a body to a frame. It begins at the rear and moves forward. The reason, to get the rear wheels the bed or fenders centered in the wheel well

Attention now goes in the cab.

Solving problems, at the firewall, center a cut out for the back of the distributor tacked. Too the right the trans dipstick inside of the cab, the trans speaks for itself LOL
Time passes tunnel, dipstick cover, dash, electrics mounted in and out. No external wiring will be visible when complete. 

Gas peddel will be all mechinical, no cables, using the original bell-crank and bearing pillar found on the rusted hulk of a firewall .. WD too the rescue

Continued part assembly and building to follow. All body work stopped for now. Will begin again when the truck and all running parts are fitted, except wiring, gas & hyd

Pep

34_40

Re: Removing rust on sht metal
« Reply #26 on: October 31, 2018, 07:26:21 PM »
Seems that my earlier reply was lost....
Oh well, I don't remember that reply being very witty or amusing so, no great loss there. ;)

Nice to see the rod coming along nicely, and an "interesting" way to deal with the dipstick at least.  8)
Clausing 108, Clausing 8520, Atlas Horizontal, Lincoln stick and mig welders