Wells Index Model Super 55 complete scraping and rebuild

[Thunderdog]

I know I put this up the first go around. There will be some repeat images that some have seen in the past.  So, I'll recap this intense and totally worthwhile rebuild.  For future readers, I'm self-taught but took a significantly long time to gather information and materials. I also had first-hand help via the internet from a variety of sources, including folks here and Richard King.

I purchased this Wells Index Super 55 back in the winter.  I had finally moved into the respectable size mills from my time with an Atlas horizontal mill.  The Atlas was a fun machine, but I just knew I had to upgrade eventually.

I must have some type of sickness because I seem to enjoy buying these abused machines and bringing them back to life.  I think I'll let the pictures tell the story for now.  There is no way I could have scraped this machine without the cast iron surface plate, an engine hoist, and some type of power scraper.  I don't own a biax, but I built something similar with a reciprocating saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCtmry4flLs&t=

[Carpenter84]

How did that home made power scraper wind up working after all said and done? I know you recieved some heat over it.

[Thunderdog]

You're right, I got heat over it.  But, that's when I sometimes double down.

It has worked perfectly.  There was a learning curve, but I could not be happier with the results.  After adjusting the grind angle slightly, things improved dramatically.

[Carpenter84]

I have an old mastercraft recip saw in the shed....

[Thunderdog]

I'm posting multiple times due to picture limits on the forum, no worries.

I set to town with checks/measurements and eventually just dove into the deep end.
Scraping and scraping for alignment are two different things.  Future readers, do your homework before even considering any of this.  It is not for the faint of heart!!
As an example of my inexperience, the first picture in this post shows a false reading.  Glad I didn't scrape first.  In the words of Richard King, "Be a detective".  It's wrong because I didn't take the time to clean up the stamped numbers at the top of the column.(See the pic. below)
Moving things around and making cribs/holders for the parts is also critical.
Another rookie mistake that I made, don't try to scrape the gibs from the start.  Instead, save yourself some time and energy by bending them back close to original form if you can.  Then, proceed to scrape.
More pics to document the experience. 

[4GSR]

That was an interested wear pattern on you column there.

You did some nice scraping work there.  Thanks for sharing.

Ken

[Thunderdog]

Once I had the top of the saddle scraped flat, I proceeded to scrape the center section of it slightly lower as per a suggestion from Richard King.  Next up, was the table.  After doing some checks, I had significant wear in the center.  Scraping continued slowly but surely.  I then switched to the top of the table.  It was checked with my surface plate, which hinged in the center.  From my reading and beginners understanding, this is due to the tightening of bolts in the T-slots which induces the bend.  More scraping, bluing, and checking with the surface plate.  Eventually, I achieved complete coverage.  A BIG SIGH OF RELIEF!!

[firestopper]

Outstanding work Thunderdog.

[Thunderdog]

I added some small modifications.  I used some 3/4 x 3 x 36" flat bar to make adjustable feet and purchased bearings that are each rated for 1500lb.  This allows me to adjust for level and if I unscrew those bolts the machine rides freely on the bearings.  This is not my idea, I saw it somewhere on the internet but can't recall where.  This made life SOOO much easier when I had to move the machine out from the wall to mount the motor on top and make some slight adjustments to the table feed motor which is found inside the column.
I purchased a vfd from automationdirect.(No affiliation, but highly recommend their product).  I also purchased a braking resistor so that I could slow the machine down very quickly and gives me the ability to power tap.  I've tried it already.  Super simple, bring the tap down to the hole, the machine takes over to draw it in, when you're ready simply switch the forward/reverse switch, and BHAMM, you've got a tapped hole.     Of course, now I need to buy the right taps before I screw something up.   In addition, I purchased a control box that is conveniently located for start/stop/for/rev and speed control.

[Thunderdog]

Next up, the bracket for the table power feed.  This was known from day 1, and something I mulled over once in while on the clean-up days.  Nobody mentions this very often but scraping is filthy work, but requires absolute cleanliness to avoid false readings.

The bracket was beyond repair, in fact, a major section didn't even come with the machine.  The lower gear was worn out, along with the shaft keyway having been stripped.  I didn't mention this earlier, but the X-axis lead screw was bent .020".  Don't worry I fixed that before installing it.  It was such a pain for a newbie like myself, Keith Fenner makes it look so easy.  After taking some measurements I began making some parts.  The real challenge was my ultra limited material selection.  The centerpiece has two threaded holes, they serve no purpose and are simply there as a result of limited material to choose from.  Workholding of the gear is courtesy of one of Keith Rucker's videos.  The repair is not "pretty", but it works perfectly.

[4GSR]

I like your bracket, that turned out nice.  Mine has a ear broke off of one corner.  Managed to drill and tap a hole for a 10-24 bolt to hole the ear in place.  You gave me an idea on making a totally new bracket for my mill too.

BTW- Fanatic job done!!!